MCB 2024 Innovation on Display, but Is France’s Professional Hair Care Market Losing Momentum

MCB 2024: Despite Innovation on Display, is France’s Professional Hair Care Market Losing Momentum?

The 41st edition of MCB by Beauté Sélection in Paris reinforced its importance in the beauty industry, especially in hair care. Soufiane Abeddaa, Project Lead in our Beauty and Wellbeing sector, attended the event and remarked, “While MCB by Beauté Sélection highlighted the latest trends and innovations from beauty brands in France, many key players noted a general slowdown in activity, raising concerns about the industry’s outlook as we approach year-end.”  This mirrors our recent mid-year analysis, where we also observed a dip in professional hair care sales through the salon channel in France during the first half of 2024.

Despite these concerns, the event showcased several standout moments. Here are the highlights that caught our attention:

Major Brands Taking Center Stage With Innovations and Strategic Revamps

Leading brands such as L’Oréal, Wella Company, Henkel, and Eugene Perma showcased their latest innovations, reaffirming their stronghold in the professional hair care market in France. All took central spaces at the tradeshow.

  • L’Oréal introduced its new Airlight hair dryer, which has been recognized with a CES 2024 Innovation Award. This device claims to leverage advanced infrared technology combined with high-speed airflow to dry hair gently and efficiently. In addition, L’Oréal displayed its entire brand portfolio and new offerings, with a special focus on AI and virtual reality developments that elevate user experience at the heart of salons.
  • Wella Company unveiled a revamped Nioxin brand, preparing it for a strong relaunch. Nioxin’s rebranding efforts include enhanced marketing strategies and product formulations aimed at both professionals and consumers. The brand emphasizes its expertise in scalp care, leveraging clinical research to back up its product claims.
  • Schwarzkopf Professional showcased developments in its Igora Vibrance line, emphasizing its commitment to eco-friendly packaging. The folding box is made of up to 83% recycled cardboard, while the bottle and cap consist of 50% recycled plastic. The product’s carbon-free black cap and bottle are designed for 100% recyclability. Moreover, it featured the relaunch of its Oil Ultime line, among other innovations.
  • Now part of Alfaparf, Eugene Perma made its appearance with a refreshed version of its Collections Nature line, despite a challenging year. The brand was featured alongside the other two brands under Alfaparf’s umbrella—Olaplex and Semi di Lino—with the latter expected to gain more prominence in the coming years.

Furthermore, La Boutique du Coiffeur booth remained a standout, featuring an expansive display of popular brands such as Olaplex, Dyson, and GHD, which enjoyed significant exposure this year. It also served as a shopping stop for professionals to place orders or make on-the-spot purchases.

L’Oreal walking visitors into its Masterclass Hairtech, which invites them to dive into the science of hair through augmented reality
Alfaparf displaying the Eugene Perma and Olaplex brands but also dedicated a space to Semi Di Lino to present it as part of the Trio
Revamping of Eugene Perma Natures collection with new design identity and new formula, including a new curling line

Newcomers Making Waves Amid Notable Absences

A few newcomers caught our attention, particularly It’s a 10, known for its strong presence in the United States where it stood among the top 10 leading companies in 2023, according to our data. The American brand offered a glimpse into its portfolio, encompassing mainly care products centered around their “10-in-one” concept. It’s a 10 was seeking new distribution partners and hinted at its potential to make a move within the France market.

On the other hand, the absence of several key players did not go unnoticed, with brands like Moroccanoil, Bleue Libellule, Gouiran Beauté, Treatwell, Fauvert Professionnel, New Flag, and Booksy, among others, missing from the event.

It's a 10 exploring opportunities to enter the professional hair care market in France

Barber Segment Thriving, But Others Showing Signs of Slowdown

The barber segment showed steady dynamism, with a strong presence of brands and distributors across various categories, reflecting resilient demand. This segment is expected to thrive as consumer interest continues to rise, especially in tools and accessories.

In the curl segment, Les Secrets de Loly stood out, prominently positioned at the entrance of the tradeshow. However, only a few other players, such as Beauté Insolente and Bouclette, were spotted in this segment this year, indicating a smaller presence compared to 2023. Furthermore, the tradeshow also saw a noticeable decline in the representation of the nail care and Brazilian straightening/care sections.

The sustainability/green corridor also shrank considerably, with little novelty this year. While brands such as Marcapar, Végétalement Provence, and Patrice Mulato maintained a steady presence, many others that showcased sustainable practices and green positioning in prior years were notably absent.

Finally, a major announcement was made during the event: The formation of a new collective of associations, including Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA), Union Nationale des Entreprises de Coiffure (UNEC), and Le Conseil National des Entreprises de Coiffure (CNEC). Their goal is to unite all stakeholders in the sector for the first time to enhance salon attendance, attract a new generation of clients, and inspire the next wave of hairstylists.

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